Denpasar has the island's best range of Indonesian and Balinese food. Savvy locals and expats each have their own favourite warung and restaurants.
Bhineka Jaya Cafe : Home to Bali's Coffee Co, tn's storefront sells locally grown beans and makes a mean espresso, which you can enjoy at the two tiny tables while watching the bustle of Denpasar's old main drag.
Warung Beras Bali : Organic rice underpins organic vegetables and various Chinese dishes a'this appropriately green-hued open-front café.
The slightly gentrified air here is redolent with lne smells of good food.
Ciajur: Big, airy and cool, this shiny up market restaurant has Balinese seafood in an array of preparations (crispy, grilled, steamed or wrapped in a banana leaf). It's hugely popular with families and groups of government workers.
Ayam fioreng Kalasan : The name here says it all. Fried Chicken (Ayam Goreng) named for a Javanese temple (Kalasan) in a region renowned for its fiery, crispy chicken. The version here falls off the bone on the way to the table; the meat is redolent with lemon grass from a long marinade prior to the plunge into boiling oil.
Cak Asm : No, the name isn't the sound you make after eating here. If that were the case, this simple cafe would be named 'yum'. Order the cumi cumi (calamari) with telor asin sauce (a heavenly mixture of eggs and garlic). The resulting buttery, crispy goodness may be the best dish you have in Bali. And it's under US$1.
Ubud's restaurants offer the most diverse and interesting food on the island. It's a good place to try authentic Balinese dishes, as well as a range of other Asian and international cuisine.
A good organic fanners market is held each week, at Pizza Bagus (opposite) every Saturday from Sam to 1pm. Bintang Supermarket is well located and has a large range of food and other essentials.
JL RAYA UBUD
There are busy and tasty choices on Ubud's main street.
Nomad : Offers a daily barbecue, often with a gamelan player providing the soundtrack. Balinese food is served in tapas-sized portions. Assume the position - lotus that is -at low Japanese-style tables.
Casa Luna: Renaissance woman Janet de Neefe of cooking school and writers festival fame runs this ever-popular Indonesian-focused restaurant, which has recently been entirely rebuilt and looks better than ever.
Rendezvousdoux : How to define it? A fusion of French-accented forms: cafe, library and bookshop, Rendezvousdoux is the most creative spot on the street. Bonuses include global music (at times live) and historic films about Ubud on loop.
MONKEY FOREST RD
Bumbu Bali : A good place for Balinese food in the heart of Ubud. The menu features dishes such as lawar (green bean salad), ayam pela-lah (spicy shredded chicken salad) and sambal goreng udang (prawns in a tangy coconut-milk sauce).
Three Monkeys : Mellow music and artworks set a cultured mood. The tables overlooking the rice field out the back make it magic. By day there are sandwiches, salads and gelato. At night there's a fusion menu of Asian classics, including addictive Vietnamese summer prawn rolls.
Coffee & Silver : Tapas and more substantial items make up the menu at this comfortable cafe with seating inside and out. Vintage photos of Ubud line the walls. Many linger over the good coffee and other drinks for hours.
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Juice Ja Cafe : Glass of spirulina? Dash of wheatgrass with your papaya juice? Organic fruits and vegetables go into the food at this funky bakery-cafe. Little brochures explain the provenance of items like the organic cashew nuts.
TutmakCafe : The breezy multilevel location here, facing both Jl Dewi Sita and the football field, is a popular place for a refreshing drink or a meal. Local comers on the make huddle around their laptops plotting their next move.
Kafe Batan Want : This ever-popular cafe has an expanded outdoor terrace. It serves consistently excellent Indonesian food, which is presented with a dash of colour and flair. The mie goreng noodles are made fresh daily - a noteworthy detail given the number of places that substitute pot noodles. Western dishes include sandwiches and salads.
Choose from several simple and funky eateries on this nearly traffic-free lane.
Dewa Waning : When it rains, the tin roof sounds like a tap-dance convention and the bare light bulbs sway in the breeze. A little garden surrounds tables a few steps above the road where diners tuck into plates of sizzling fresh Indo fare.
Oevilidous: Jl Goutama is a delightful street for a stroll and this cafe is one of the reasons why. Just wandering the narrow lane is like stepping back 30 years in Ubud, and creative little places like this place seem to appear like mushrooms after the rain. Look for theme nights like Cajun Fridays and Italian Tuesdays.
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