Ask Chongqing residents for their favourite dish, and they'll likely say 'hotpot' . You'll find these steaming cauldrons of fiery broth everywhere, from street stalls to grand dining rooms. Wuyi Lu, known as Huoguo Jie (Hotpot St), is lined with chilli-scented store-front eateries, and several places serve hotpot on Minsheng Lu.
For a more upscale hotpot experience, or a good selection of other dining options, cross the Yangzi to Nan'an Binjiang Lu, a strip packed with trendy outdoor restaurants and bars. To get here, take the Yangzi River cable car to the river's south side, then either walk southwest along the river for about 25 to 30 minutes, or take a taxi (Y6 to Y8) or bus 338 (Yl) and get off wherever it seems interesting.
There are also plenty of restaurants in the city centre.
Dongbei Jiaozi Cheng (Northeast Dumpling Town; 117 Minsheng Lu; dishes Y3-10; S9am-9pm) With rickety tables, plastic chairs and a TV blaring, this dumpling shop near the Flower & Bird Market is as basic as it gets. But the tasty jiaozi (dumplings) - including the classic baicai (pork and cabbage) version - are made fresh, perfect for a quick meal.
Hdngyadong (Cangbai Lu; dishes Y3-10; S 10am-9pm) Despite the complex's touristy veneer, Hongyadong has friendly local food stalls on the 4th floor serving noodles, chilli-topped tofu and other light meals.
Food Republic (6th fl, Metropolitan Plaza, Zourong Lu; dishes Y12-30; 10am-9pm) When the heat on the street is overwhelming, head to this indoor food court to feast on everything from fried rice to hotpot to Korean barbecue in air-conditioned comfort. Pay with a 'debit card' sold in Y30, Y50 and Y100 denominations; if you don't spend it all, bring your card back to the cashier who'll refund the balance.
Lao Sichuan Dajiulou (Old Sichuan Restaurant; 6382 6644; 186 Minzu Lu; dishes Y18-68; 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm) A long-standing favourite, this buzzing 2nd-floor spot starts with fresh ingre-dients and crafts them into popular regional dishes. The English menu is quite limited; you can do better by pointing at the photos in the Chinese menu.
Qi Huoguo (6381 3777; 169 Minzu Lu; meals from Y25; S 11am-10pm) Part of a locally popular hotpot chain, this two-level restaurant is classier than the storefront joints, but still reasonably priced. Besides the standard meat, tofu and noodles, you can choose unusual green vegetables and even squares of congealed ducks' blood (it's better than it sounds).
Among Chongqing's myriad options for cheap, grab-and-go meals, the best spot is Good Eats Street (Haochi Jie; Bayi Lu, btwn Zourong Lu & Zhonghua Lu), with outdoor stalls selling spicy cold noodles, barbecue, and squid on sticks. In the middle of the block, go downstairs to Xiao Dong Tian (dishes Y3-20; 10am -10pm), a bustling food court with counters offering dumplings, soups, noodles, hotpot and more. Before ordering, buy a ticket from the nearest cashier in the amount of the dish you want.
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
Chongqing nightlife revolves around flashy karaoke (KTV) bars and strobe-lit discos.Ask around when you arrive to see what's currently popular.
Dee Dee's Bar (138 0832 4216; 86 Nanping Xinjie) If you're not into the disco scene, head for this gathering place that's long been popular with Chongqing's expats, who swap tales over beer and pub grub. It's down some hard-to-find stone steps next to the Holiday Inn Yangzi.
Deyi Shijie (Minquan Lu) is a massive complex south of the Liberation Monument with a huge choice of bars and discos. The eccentric True Love (Zhen'ai; K 8pm-2am) on the lower level hosts theme nights ranging from matchmaking events to Arabian nights with shimmying belly dancers.
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