From Malay and Nonya dishes to practically every permutation of Chinese, Indian, Southeast Asian and European, KL is a nonstop feast. You can dine in incredible elegance or mingle with locals at thousands of street stalls - it's all good and it's seldom heavy on the pocket.
Whether you're on a budget or not, most often the best food is from the hawker stalls, cheap cafes (called kopitiam) and inexpensive restaurants (restorari). Hygiene standards at hawker stalls are generally good and you should have little to fear from eating at them. However, if this is not your thing - or you just want air-con with your meal - then KL's many food courts, usually located in shopping malls, offer an answer.
If you need more options than those listed below, we highly recommend the website Fried Chillies (www.friedchillies.com), which includes spot-on reviews by some of the most enthusiastic foodies we've met, as well as video clips. Time Out Kuala Lumpur also compiles a monthly top 40 of its favourite culinary picks.
Golden Triangle & KLCC
Blue Boy Vegetarian Food Centre :It's hard to believe that everything prepared at this spotless place at the base of a backstreet apartment block is vegetarian, but it's true. The char kway teow (broad noodles fried in chilli and black-bean sauce) is highly recommended.
Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao : Avidly patronised chain that turn out ex-cellent hand-cut noodles and dim sum (sweet and savoury minidishes), with a photographic menu whose pictures actually resemble the delicious food you're served.
Hakka : Specialising in Hakka-style cuisine: try the stuffed crabs and tofu dishes. The outdoor section - atmospheric and hung with fairy lights that complement the view of the illuminated Petronas Towers - is only open in the evenings.
EUROPEAN & FUSION
Loaf : This Euro-style bakery cafe and bistro (in which ex-PM Dr Mahathir is an investor) is a Malaysian take on a Japanese baked-goods shop. Huh? No matter - the baked goods are divine and we love the mini cheesecakes for a quick snack.
Chiaroscuro : Tuck into fantastic pizza and other Italian dishes at this relaxed trattoria tucked behind the Istana Hotel.
Magnificent Fish & Chip Bar :The high quality of the fish (at least eight types, including barramundi) explains the relatively high price you'll pay for the newspaper-wrapped fish and chips at this thoroughly English operation.
Twentyone Kitchen & Bar :Lots of interesting choices on the menu here, several of which you can sample together on taster plates. The bar upstairs, with a deck overlooking the street, gets cranking at weekends when a DJ spins chill and dance tunes.
Frangipani : Indulge in delicious, creative fusion-style dishes at this outstanding fine-dining restaurant. The dining room, which surrounds a reflecting pool, is divine, and there's an equally stylish upstairs bar.
Stylish Neroteca : is the cosy stablemate of nearby Nerovivo and is equally adept at turning out delicious, authentic Italian staples.
A pork lovers' heaven, Elcerdo : is a classy 'nose to tail eating' joint. Next door is its tapas bar, El Cerdito, while across the road the restaurant-bar Werner's on Changkat com-pletes the German owner's hat trick.
Restoran Nagansari Curry House ; This simple place gets the thumbs up for its authentic banana-leaf meals, including a vegetarian set lunch for RM4.50.
Vansh : Tasty and nicely presented Indian food is served at this super-stylish restaurant.
Rakuzen : Great value and nicely presented traditional dishes can be found at this smart place with some Japanese-style rooms at the rear.
Fukuya : Based in a quiet suburban area of downtown KL, this 'house of happiness' is where chef Takao Ando makes diners smile with his impeccable kaiseki (Japanese fine dining) cuisine.
MALAY & NONYA
Betty's Cafe : Cutely designed canteen offering simple local dishes such as curry laksa, prawn mee noodles and Ipoh koay teow soup. There's also a branch in CapSquare.
Little Penang Kafe : Set meals (RM13.50) let you sample several of the Nonya dishes that Penang is famous for, including lobak (deep-fried tofu-rolled chicken strips) and the spicy Siamese lemak laksa (using coconut milk), only available Friday to Sunday.
Bijan :Skilfully cooked traditional dishes in a sophisticated environment. The durian cheesecake is a surprisingly pleasant way of sampling the pungent fruit.
TopHat: Serves both traditional British - think oxtail stew and bread-and-butter pudding - and local dishes, such as Nyonya Laksa (R28), which all come with signature 'top hats' (pastry shells filled with sliced veggies) and choice of local dessert.
Seri Angkasa : Watch KL pass by from this revolving restaurant atop Menara KL (KL Tower). The very decent lunch buffet (noon and 2.30pm) is RM66.70. Book for evening meals, especially for sunset dining. There's a dress code, but the staff will provide men wearing shorts with a sarong (to cover the legs).
Enak : Finely presented Malay cuisine with a sophisticated twist, as befits the trendy Starhill Gallery.
Ibunda : In a restored colonial mansion Ibunda makes a valiant attempt at Malay-fusion fine dining, serving up eye-popping creations with subtle flavours and textures.
THAI & VIETNAMESE
Sao Nam : Great Vietnamese cuisine served in a colourful, propaganda-art setting.
Mythai Jim Thompson :As you'd expect for a Jim Thompson operation, the decor here is lovely, with silk cushions and other decorative items that can be purchased at the store on the gallery's 3rd floor. The food is equally fab and includes dishes that you'd rarely find outside Thailand.
HAWKER STALLS & FOOD COURTS
Jin Alor is lined with some of the best hawker stalls and restaurants in KL. Locals complain that the prices are on the high side, but it's still great value and a wonderful atmosphere. Most stalls open around 5pm and close late, although a few are open all day. We list standout options below.
For food courts you can't go wrong with those in the malls. Suria KLCC has two: Signatures on level two specialises in international food, while Rasa Food Arena on level four has more local selections. Pavilion KL's basement level Food Republic food court also offers outstanding choice and swank surroundings.
Ngau Kee Beef Ball Noodles : The dish at this venerable street stall comes in two parts: dry, steamed noodles topped with a thick soy-sauce mince, and the chunky beef balls in a clear soup. Delicious!
Mil'J.mil Imbi Market : The official name is Pasar Baru Bukit Bintang, but everyone knows it simply as Imbi Market. Breakfast is like a party here with all the friendly and curious locals happily recommending their favourite stalls. We like Sisters Popiah (see above); Teluk Intan Chee Cheung Fun, which serves a lovely oyster and peanut congee (rice por-ridge), and Bunn Choon for the creamy mini-egg tarts.
1 + 1 : One of the few round-the-clock operations on this eats street that does good dim sum for breakfast and lunch. Opposite is the frog porridge stall (per bowl RM7; open 5pm to 2am). You can choose to have 'spicy', where the frogs legs (RM7) are served separately, or 'non-spicy', where they're mixed in with the tasty rice gruel.
Wong Ah Wah : At the southern end of the street, and justly famous for its seriously addictive chicken wings, this is an ideal spot for a late-night snack with a bottle of beer.
Chinatown & Around
West Lake Restoran :Simple eatery known for its yong dou fu (bean curd stuffed with minced fish) and mee (noodle) dishes.
Purple Cane Tea Restaurant : Tucked behind the Chinese Assembly Hall is this relaxing place where tea is used in many of the dishes, including a chicken version of bak kut the (a soup normally made with pork rib).
EUROPEAN & FUSION
Cafe Cafe : Flickering candles and twinkling crystal decoration conjure a romantic atmosphere at this quirky French-Italian restaurant. Avoid the fancy fois gras dishes, stick to simpler concoctions and you'll do fine.
MALAY & NONYA
Sing Seng Nam :KL is fast filling up with new 'old-style' kopitiam, but this is the genuine object, busy with lawyers from the nearby courts enjoying breakfast of kaya toast and runny boiled egg or a kopi peng (iced coffee with milk).
Old China Cafe : The old guild hall of the Selangor & Federal Territory Laundry Association is the atmospheric home for this fine cafe specialising in Nonya dishes from Melaka and Penang - its speciality is the spicy coconut-milk soup, laksa.
Precious : Decorated with beautiful antiques (most for sale) and modern Chinese art, this sister establishment to the Old China Cafe offers a more upscale environment in which to enjoy trademark Nonya cuisine, as well as a bar.
Khukri : Something of a gathering point for Nepalis in KL, this simple restaurant serves authentic Nepalese cuisine, including great momos (dumplings), steamed or fried, and spicy chicken and mutton dishes.
HAWKER STALLS & FOOD COURTS
There's a good food court on level two of Central Market (Map p100; Jin Hang Kasturi), but if you want to see all of Chinatown's action, you need to get out on the streets. The easy touristy option is to take a seat at one of the tables outside the Chinese restaurants on Jin Hang Lekir, between Jin Petaling and Jin Sultan.
Better is to join locals enjoying spicy fish and seafood dishes from the Ikan panggang stall outside Hong Leong Bank, unsigned and tucked behind the stalls on the corner of Jin Petaling and Jin Hang Lekir. Order ahead -it generally takes 20 minutes for your foil-wrapped pouch of seafood to cook, allowing time to explore the market. Wash the meal down with a glass of mata kucing (cat's eye), a refreshing Asian fruit drink, also bought from a stall on the same corner.
Set back from the main drag is the old-style Tang City Food Court). Head to the back to find spicy Burmese noodle dishes served at Boe Jet Kei ( 4-11.30pm).
Little India, Kampung Baru & Northern Kuala Lumpur
Yut Kee : It doesn't matter how busy it gets at this much beloved Hainanese kopitiam, the staff remain calm and polite. Skip the Western dishes and go for the house specialities such as roti babi (deep-fried bread filled with shredded pork and onions) or the fried Hokkien mee noodles.
Bisou : One of the cheapest and least pretentious places on Asian Heritage Row. It's a cute spot to grab a Western-style breakfast, sandwich or yummy iced cupcake.
Coliseum Cafe : Come for its legendary sizzling steaks and the stuck-in-time colonial-era ambience.
Bilal Restoran :No points for ambience, but the Bilal is highly popular for its South Indian Muslim dishes. There's a large range of roti canai (unleavened, flaky flat bread), including egg and bawang (onion), plus ikan (fish) and kambing (mutton) curries.
Sagar : Enjoy the good-value thali meals (rice or bread served with assorted vegetables and curries; RM8.80 to RM9.80) at this sidewalk cafe, and soak up the street life of Little India. There's also an air-con section inside.
Sangeetha : This well-run vegetarian restaurant serves lots of South Indian delights such as idli (savoury, soft, fermented-rice-and-lentil cakes) and ma-sala dosa (rice-and-lentil crepes stuffed with spiced potatoes).
Restoran Buharry : Popular hangout for office workers on Asian Heritage Row. All the usual mamak (Muslim Indian) favourites are on offer, plus excellent torn yam (hot and sour) soup and delicious mango smoothies.
JAPANESE & THAI
Yu Ri Tei : Beside the Sentul Park Koi Centre is this charming teahouse serving simple Japanese dishes such as noodles. Combine a meal here with a visit to the adjacent Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre .
Thai-la : One of the more interesting dining options at the new CapSquare complex. The food is tasty, the decor has a chic charm and Zaki, the entertainingly camp owner, can talk the hind legs off a donkey.
The best time to visit Little India is during the Saturday pasar malam on Lg Tuanku Abdul Rahman, the alley between Jin TAR and Jin Masjid India. From mid-afternoon, this narrow lane becomes crammed with food stalls serving excellent Malaysian Indian and Chinese food.
Kampung Baru's Saturday pasar malam -called the Sunday Market (Pasar Minggu) because it runs into the early hours of Sunday morning - is also worth attending. The main action here is focused at the end of Jin Raja Alang, not far from the LRT station, where you'll find the stall Warong Perasan serving a good selection of Malay dishes.
Ikan Bakar Berempah :If you can't make it to Kampung Baru for the night market, head to this stall serving a wonderful range of barbecued fish daily.
Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Southern Kuala Lumpur
Brickfield's Indian community makes it a top spot for Indian cuisine.
Siu Siu : On the way to the Tian How Temple, this is a deserved local favourite. Order the milk curry prawns with buns to soak up the tasty gravy or any type of fish.
Chynna : The big hit among the Hilton's 'Studio' concept restaurants, ranged around Frank Woo's striking giant sculpture Dancing Shadow. Chynna offers tasty Cantonese dishes in a Shanghai-chic setting, all opulent reds and golds. A herbal doctor is on hand to balance your chi.
Yogitree : We love anywhere that serves breakfast until 6pm. This 'real food' cafe and yoga clothes boutique uses plenty of organic produce in its mix-and-match local and Western food menu.
Dining Room : A masterclass in understated luxury and sublime French-style cuisine. You won't regret treating yourself to the set lunch here (RM126.50), while for a real celebration there's the eight-course degustation dinner (RM322).
Annalakshmi ; Eat as you wish, give as you feel is the mantra at this vegetarian Indian restaurant. There's a dress code, probably to deter free-loaders.
Vishal : Punters sit at two long rows of tables for the great banana-leaf meals served up at this long-running Brickfields favourite.
Gem Restaurant : One of the most consistently good Indian restaurants in Brickfields. Come for its thali, the chunky chicken tikka and the great range of vegetarian options, including creamy Indian-style veg.
Kompleks Makan Tanglin : Yet another good reason for hanging out in the Lake Gardens is the chance to grab a meal at this popular hawker stall complex - Ikan Bakar Pak Din's stall is a popular one.
Ikan Bakar Jalan Bellamy :People drive from all over to frequent the three barbecued fish hawker stalls on the hill behind the royal palace - even the king occasionally sends his minions to get an order of grilled stingray.
Haunt of expats and KL's well-to-do, Bangsar Baru also has fantastic hawker-stall options over in the area known as Taman Lucky (Lucky Gardens) and a great pasar malam on Sunday nights. To get there, take the LRT to Bangsar station, then either walk (10 minutes) or jump into a taxi (RM3).
Reunion : Elegantly designed contemporary Chinese restaurant that's ideal for a business dinner or an intimate date.
EUROPEAN & FUSION
Delicious : Stylish delicious cafes are popping up all over KL; this is one of the biggest branches, serving its trademark chunky sandwiches, big salads, pastas, scrumptious cakes and other desserts. The afternoon tea set (RM69 for two) is a good deal.
Alexis Bistro : Asian favourites such as laksa mix it up with more European fare at Alexis, another Bangsar brand that's spread its wings around the city; check the website for details of branches at Ampang's Great Eastern Mall and the Gardens, Mid Valley.
La Bodega : This popular, trendy place is four venues in one: an all-day deli cafe serving good sand-wiches, a chilled-out tapas bar, a formal dining room, and a lively lounge bar. Good wine and authentic tapas and paella complete the Spanish mood. The new branch at Pavilion KL is known for its great cooked breakfast.
Sri Nirwana Maju : There are certainly flashier Indian restaurants in Bangsa, but who cares about the decor when you can tuck into food this good and this reasonably priced? Serves it all from roti for breakfast to banana-leaf curries throughout the day.
Chawan : Hard to fault this chic contemporary take on a kopitiam. It offers mega-strength coffees from all of the country's states to wash down dishes such as beef rendang and a brown paper-wrapped nasi lemak .
Nasi Lemak Antarabangsa : A spiffed-up spin-off from the original nasi lemak joint that's been dishing up the rice and trimmings in Kampung Baru since 1973.
Sunday night's pasar malam, held in the parking lot opposite the mosque on Jin Telawi 1, is an institution; you'll find all manner of tempting take-away food stalls, including ones offering otak otak (spicy fish paste grilled in banana leaves) and the crepe-like apam balik. We can recommend the stall that sells sweet-sour asam laksa (a version of laksa with prawn paste and tamarind-flavoured gravy).
Devi's Corner :A pavement-cafe mood prevails at this food court facing the Bangsar Village II mall. The tray curries are excellent, with plenty of fish, prawns and other seafood. You can get dosa, biriyani and great satay here.
Nam Chuan Coffee Shop : Nam Chuan Coffee Shop is the name of this food court - inside are many individually run stalls, including Christina Jong's which serves Sarawak laksa from Sam to 3pm Thursday to Tuesday. As with other food courts come at different times of the day and you'll find different operators running each of the stalls - some doing the breakfast and lunch, others just working in the evening.
Chelo's Appam Stall :Sample freshly made vegan Indian delights, including the sweet appatn (coconut-milk pancakes). Also in this hawker stall area you'll find Anwar dishing up an amazing fish-head curry.
You'll find most of what you need at the fol-lowing central supermarkets; all are open 10am to 9.30pm.
Cold Storage, Isetan, Mercado , DO Supermarket .
You want bubble tea, iced kopi-o, a frosty beer or a flaming Lamborghini? KL's cafes, teahouses and bars can deliver it all. The Golden Triangle is the main deal with Changkat Bukit Bintang the hottest strip; if you're into bars packed with testosterone-challenged males and lusty ladies then Jin P Ramlee delivers. The boil has gone off Asian Heritage Row (Jin Doraisamy) near the Medan Tuanku mono-rail station, just as the possibilities for sophisticates and the indie-inclined have heated up at nearby CapSquare. Bangsar continues to hold its own for classy expat bars and cafes.
Unless otherwise noted standard opening hours are 5pm to 2am.
CAFES & TEAHOUSES
The Apartment Downtown :Imagine you actually live at the KLCC at this convivial lounge-like cafe-bar space with outdoor seating overlooking the park - it's a lovely spot to revive after a hard day's shopping at the mall.
J Co Donuts & Coffee : The wacky donut creations may have cheesy names (Tira Miss U or Mona Pisa anyone?), but they look so damn tasty that it's difficult to pass this fried dough and coffee operation by.
Lecka Lecka :Among the several pavement cafe-bars lining Bintang Walk, Lecka Lecka, outside Starhill Gallery, seduces with its wafting chiffon curtains, soft seats and trademark ice creams. Alternatively, puff on a hubble bubble or sip a cocktail.
Luk Yu Tea House : Swing by Starhill Gallery for a premium brew inside a charming traditional Chinese teahouse.
Ole Cafe :One of the few bona fide chill-out spots along a busy strip, this quiet cafe has free internet access, nice teas and coffees, and cakes.
Sixty Nine Bistro : Worth checking out for its eclectic junkshop-chic furnishings, milk and fruit shakes, and resident fortunetellers and tarot-card readers.
Ceylon Bar : Convivial bar with cane chairs on its verandah, sofas and board games at the rear and free wi-fi.
Luna : Staff can't mix a dirty martini, but you certainly get the twinkling view of KL's skyline at this super-sophisticated rooftop bar surrounding a swimming pool. On Friday and Saturday nights there's a RM50 cover charge.
Palate Palette : Gotta love a place that offers curry popcorn and a drink called Kick in the Nuts. Colourful, creative, quirky and super-cool this cafe-bar is a great place to eat (mains RM10 to RM30), drink, play board games, and check out KL's boho crowd.
Quattro : Drift from spring, through summer, autumn and winter at this season-themed bar, lounge, restaurant and club complex. On the hour you can make a dash through an indoor rain shower -umbrellas are provided! They also have live music Tuesday to Saturday.
SkyBar : Head to the rooftop pool area of this hotel for a grand circle view across to the Petronas Towers - it's the perfect spot for sundowner cocktails or late-night flutes of bubbly.
Village Bar : Like Ali Baba's Bazaar, this enticing bar is hung with myriad coloured-glass lampshades.
Also recommended are a couple of long-running expat bars:
Finnegan's Golden Triangle :Identikit Irish bar with live sports coverage and a decent menu.
Green Man : Offering a pool table, simple food and outside seating.
CAFES & TEAHOUSES
Ikopi :Caffine addicts should seek out this place where coffees from around the world are brewed in mad-scientist contraptions.
Purple Cane Tea House :Upstairs from Ikopi is this tea drinkers' heaven, while around the corner its shop provides a full selection of teas and tea-making implements.
OM :Standing for Old Malaya the breezy OM cafe-bar is decorated with antique painted-tin poster ads and has a bar inlaid with a great collection of cigarette packets from around the world.
Reggae Bar :Love all, feed all' is the catchphrase of the red, yellow and green bedecked bar, which is knee-deep in travellers and has Bob Marley on constant rotation.
BarSavanh : Singapore's Indochine group sprinkles its Vietnamese magic on Asian Heritage Row; after finishing dinner at CoChine, head downstairs to this bar, which often has live music at weekends.
Urban Attic : Shaping up to be CapSquare's social hub is this partially open-air bar and live-music space. It's a fine hangout and has hosted KL's sporadic Pecha Kucha (www.pecha-kucha .org/cities/kuala-lumpur) nights - show-and-tell sessions with local creatives - in the past, too.
Bangsar Baru & Brickfields
Bar Upstairs : Above Alexis Bistro is this supreme chill-out venue boasting subdued red lighting, opaque furniture and soothing sounds. See the website for details of live music performances here and at other branches.
Social : Classy sports bar offering pool tables and good food as well as the booze. There's also a branch on Changkat Bukit Bintang.
Zeta Bar :The classy and expensive Zeta pulls in the well-to-do and hip 30s to 40s crowd.
Mainstream movies are screened at the multiplexes in the malls. Contact the cul-tural centres about the art-house films they occasionally screen. Tickets are around RJYI12.
Cosmo's World Theme Park Theatre :Movies screened on a screen five storeys high.
Golden Screen Cinemas Berjaya Times Square : Mid Valley; Pavilion KL Book a seat in Gold Class (RM40) for La-Z-boy-style reclining chairs and drinks service.
Tanjung Golden Village
The Istana Budaya sometimes also hosts concerts.
Dewan Filharmonik Petronas : Don't miss the chance to attend a concert at this gorgeous concert hall at the base of the Petronas Towers. The polished Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra plays here (usually Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday matinees, but also other times) as do other local and international ensembles. There is a dress code.
No Black Tie : Small, chic, jazz and live-music venue and bar with an eclectic line-up of artists; the stage is hidden behind a heavy wood door to the rear. Once a month Time Out also hosts its On the Up event here, showcasing local singers and bands doing their own material.
ROCK & POP
Also check out the bands playing at Urban Attic (left) and the Laundry out at the Curve.
Cloth and Clef : Live music and DJ bar that's trying to do something a bit different and more edgy; play DJ at their monthly 'It's My iPod' events.
Wings : Relaxed cafe-bar where emerging local artists perform pop, rock and the rest, mainly in Chinese and Bahasa Malaysia.
Places come and go in KL's lively but fluid clubbing scene; stay up to date by reading KLue or Time Out. On weekend nights a DJ spins dance tunes at the bars at Frangipani and Twentyone Kitchen &Bar . Clubs are typically open Wednesday to Sunday and usually charge a cover (including one drink) of RM20 to RM40 Thursday to Saturday.
Loft : Together with its sister club Cynna, to which its linked by a common balcony, Loft is the most enduring of Asian Heritage Row's clubbing offerings. A catwalk allows podium queens to showcase their dance moves.
Maison : Five shophouses have been knocked together to form a great space for this club where house music, in all its forms, rules.
: KL's top club offers spaces to suit everyone and a line-up of local and international DJs. As well as the two-level main venue, there's the more sophisticated Velvet Underground, with a dance floor that's glitter-ball heaven; Phuture for hip-hop groovers; and the cutting-edge Bar Sonic, home to the indie-dance event Koko Asia (www.kokoasia.com). Glimpse KL's gilded youth passing by from the outdoor Relish@Terrace Bar.
Dance & Cultural Shows
Central Market : Hosts a regular programme of free events, including Malay dance, Indian classical dance, Chinese dance and t'ai chi performances. Check the website to see what's on.
Malaysian Tourist Centre : Professionally staged traditional dance and music performances (adult/child under 12 RM5/free) are held regularly in the miniditorium to the rear of MaTiC. It also has a similar dance show at 8.30pm daily in the attached restaurant Saloma (21610122; show only RM40, buffet and show RM75).
Seri Melayu :Traditional Malay music and dance performances (show only RM31.75 Malaysian buffet and show RM70) run from 8.30pm to 9.15pm. Its Malaysian buffet (open 6pm to 10.30pm) is extensive.
Sutra Dance Theatre : The home of Malaysian dance legend Ramli Ibrahim has been turned into a showcase for Indian classical dance as well as a dance studio, gallery and cultural centre near Lake Titiwangsa. See the website for upcoming shows.
Theatre & Comedy
Istana Budaya :Big-scale drama and dance shows are staged here, as well as music performances by the National Symphony Orchestra and National Choir. There's a dress code: no shorts, and men must wear long-sleeved shirts.
Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre : Lots of interesting work is staged at this modern performing-arts complex set in the landscaped grounds of Sentul West in the north of the city.
Time Out Comedy Thursday : It's always a packed house for this monthly stand-up gig by some of the funniest guys (and occasional girl) in KL.
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