Most of the best eateries cluster on and just off Jl Yos Sudarso near Hotel Tanjung. Restaurants in Sorong are generally better stocked with alcohol (beer, at least) than those elsewhere in Papua. For cheaper eats, seafood warungs set up in the evenings at the southern end of the Yos Sudarso waterfront.
Rumah Makan Ratu Sayang : Pick up the scent offish on the grill and head inside this popular spot, 200rn from Hotel Tanjung, for delicious ikan bakar (grilled fish). With rice, spinach and three sauces, this will set you back 60,000Rp.
Sunrise : Sunrise overlooks Pantai Lido and faces west for spectacular sunsets. It's nice for a beer as well as good rice, noodle, seafood, meat, tofu and vegetable dishes.
A few villages have constructed basic tourist accommodation where you sleep on mats for around 150,000Rp per person (take a mosquito net and some food; the villagers will usually cook for you). Options: Wailebet Southern coast of Batanta. Yenbuba Eastern end of Pulau Mansuar; contact English speaking Pak Dedy (0812 4855 7279). Yensawai Northern coast of Batanta; the 'homestay' is on Pulau Dayan, a few kilometres away. Contact Pak Leo (0813 4475 4379).
If you just turn up at a village you can usually sleep in someone's house. You can pay anything from 10,000/20,000Rp for a mat/ bed, and another 10,000Rp if they provide a meal.
Kobe : Kobe Oser, also known as Ibu Maria's, has two rustic stilt bungalows set over the water at Yenwaupnor on the southern coast of Pulau Gam. Meals are basic, but it's a welcoming, relaxed place and they can provide snorkel gear and will run you round in their boat for a reasonable charge (around 300,000Rp for a typical day excursion).
Raja Ampat Dive Resort : This place a few kilometres west of Waisai is further from the best dive sites than the other island resorts are, but it can be convenient if you just want to come for a few days. Packages include an average two dives a day, meals and transfers from/to Waisai. Cottages and rooms all hold two people, but the cottages are newer and nicer, with private bathrooms. Guests have free use of snorkelling gear.
Kri Eco Resort : Kri Eco, operating since 1994, is the original Raja Ampat dive lodge, and belongs to Papua Diving, whose Dutch, founder, Max Ammer, pioneered scuba in Raja Ampat. It has a gorgeous setting on little Pulau Kri, off the eastern tip of Mansuar, and six of the spacious, airy, wooden guest bungalows are built over crystal-clear waters along the jetty. Bathrooms are shared. Packages run Sunday to Sunday and include at least 12 dives a week, meals and Sorong transfers.
Misool Eco Resort : Set on a beautiful small island off southwestern Misool, this comfortable, well-equipped dive resort has a strong conservation and community ethos, and plenty of great dive sites within a few minutes' boat ride. Dive packages include excellent meals, excursions and Sorong transfers (four to six hours each way). Most of the cottages have air-con and a verandah over the water; all have private bathroom.
Sorido Bay Resort : Papua Diving's newer, more luxu-rious option offers Western-style comforts, with air-con and hot showers in spacious wa-terside bungalows, internet access and special facilities for underwater photographers. As at Kri Eco, packages run Sunday to Sunday and include meals and Sorong transfers.
At least two more dive lodges were due to open by the end of 2009: Papua Paradise (www.papuaparadise.com) On Pulau Birie, off Batanta.
Raja Ampat Dive Lodge : On the north coast of Pulau Mansuar.
Hawai Billy Bakery & Coffee Shop : An arm of the Billy empire, this relaxed spot serves espresso, pizza and Indonesian soups, and features a wall of house-baked pastries including chocolate muffins.
Abressio Cafe : A large and spacious restaurant, with a quiet air-con section and plenty of well prepared dishes. Try the excellent ikan rica-rica (fish in a spicy sauce made with ginger, shallots and lime).
Billy Cafe : The menu details a few Western selections like hamburgers, but you're better off with the Indonesian or Chinese food, which comes in generous portions. The main dining room blasts moderately effective air-con and live music in the evenings.
Hotel Nakoro :You'll feel at home in the friendly, relaxed atmosphere in this sweet spot on a quiet street, roughly halfway between airport and port. All rooms have good air-conditioning and private mandi, and the slightly cheaper, smaller ones upstairs get more breeze. Prices include snack breakfast.
Hotel Megaria : Along a short lane from about the halfway point of Jl Raya Mandala, the Megaria was under renovation at research time but has a good selection of large, well-furnished rooms with bathrooms. The most expensive have hot water. Breakfast snack included.
Hotel Asmat : Hotel Asmat offers comfortable, quiet rooms, all with their own little front patios, breakfast and amenities like satellite TV, as well as excellent service. It's just off the northwestern end of Jl Raya Mandala.
Rumah Makan Serumpun Indah :Though a bit out of the way on the inland edge of town, this big, clean, busy eating hall is well worth a ride. Check the offerings at the counter and they'll bring your meal to your table. A brilliant nasi campur with prawns, egg, sambal and coconut sauce will cost you 32,000Rp.
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