Eating: the only thing Bruneians like to do more than shop. Most of Bandar's top noshes are located beyond the small city centre.
Ayamku Restaurant :Brunei's answer to KFC, this is one of the cheapest places in town to get a meal. You can get a big piece of fried chicken, some rice and a drink for about B$3. And the chicken is surprisingly good. One note: this may be purely coincidental, but many of the diners here seemed remarkably plump for Southeast Asians.
Nur Wanita : A fantastic new restaurant in the Kiarong area, this chic venue serves authentic dishes from Northern Thailand. It's exceptionally popular during lunch when nearby office monkeys swing by to transport their tastebuds.
l-Lotus : You'll need a cab or a very keen sense of direction to find this posh Chinese restaurant, but you'll be glad you put in the effort.
Nyonya Restaurant :Thewide-ranging menu and bistro-style air-con chic accentuate the appeal of this popular place on the Yayasan's central courtyard. As well as steak, soup, sandwiches, seabass, and Indian, Chinese and Malay dishes, there's a good-value selection of pasta (B$3 to BS7.80).
Port View Cafe : Not the most original name, but sure enough, the split-level Port View does indeed gaze out over the water towards Kampong Ayer. The downstairs cafe menu includes simple Western, Chinese and Malay dishes, while upstairs is a little more expensive and features Thai, Chinese and Japanese food.
Villa Mauri : Brunei's best tribute to the Bootland, Villa Mauri's menu reads like a poem: risotto Milanese, linguine alia pugliese, farfalle al salmone affumicato. Chequered tablecloths further enhance the Mediterranean vibe - too bad there's no wine list...
Aminah Arif : Aminah Arif is synonymous with ambuyat - Brunei's signature dish. If you're up for trying a bowl of wiggly white goo, then this is the place. Aminah's daughter has opened up her own restaurant, Seri Balai Food House, next door, and uses the same family recipe.
Food Courts, Markets & Hawker Stalls
Informal eating is the cornerstone of BSB's food scene, and every major shopping centre has its own air-conditioned food court. The Yayasan Complex and Gadong's Mall shop-centre are some of the larger specimens notm spot, Tainan Selera (Jin Kumbang Pasang; dishes B$1-8) It's uch to look at, but this night-time food across from the Terrace Hotel, offers everything from burgers and noodles to sea-food and traditional Muslim dishes (halal, curries etc). The 'smooters' (B$2) at stall four are a damn good approximation of a real ice-cream milkshake.
Kianggeh Food Court (Jin Residency; dishes B$2; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Take in the sunset views over Kampong Ayer while devouring scrumptious local dishes like savour)' satay sticks and a big bowl of soto (noodle soup) with chicken and yellow noodles. Swing by in the morning for some roti canal (flaky flat bread).
Glo Food Court (2nd fl, Yayasan Complex; dishes from B$3; S lunch & dinner) Strut past large plastic aquariums full of the daily catch and choose from an array of food stalls - each one with plate polaroids for the uninitiated. Grab a chair amid the cafeteria-style seating and enjoy your cheap grub while taking in the views of the royal barge.
Pasar Gadong (Lr Sultan, Gadong) Brunei's most famous night market, Pasar Gadong is a bustling marquee of munch parked near the big shopping centres in Gadong. Vendors offer every cooked comestible imaginable, from satay and barbecued fish to chicken wings and kueh melayu (sweet pancakes filled with peanuts, raisins and sugar), though quality varies widely. Annoyingly there's nowhere to sit, so you will either have to eat on your feet or take your grub elsewhere.
Self-caterers can walk across the canal to the local produce market, Tamu Kianggeh (Jin Sungai Kianggeh; S breakfast, lunch & dinner), for a handful of fresh snacks. The large Hua Ho Supermarket ;Yayasan Complex; 0 10am-10pm) is a good place for self-catering and has a bunch of Bruneian treats.
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