Air

The only airport in Bali, Ngurah Rai Airport (DPS) is just south of Kuta, however it is sometimes referred to internationally as Denpasar (which is 15km north) or on some internet flight booking sites as Bali.

The airport is modern; renovations planned for 2010 will greatly expand it. Services include, internet centres, upscale lounges, left-luggage, ATMs, exchange counters etc.

The domestic terminal and international terminal (0361-751011) are a few hundred metres apart.

International airlines flying to and from Bali include:

AirAsia: Serves Kota Kina-balu, Kuala Lumpur and Kuching in Malaysia, connects to London.

Cathay Pacific Airways : Serves Hong Kong.

China Airlines : Serves Taipei.

Eva Air : Serves

Taipei.

Garuda Indonesia: Serves Australia and major cities in Asia direct.

Japan Airlines : Serves Tokyo.

Jetstar/Qantas Airways : Serves Australia.

Korean Air : Serves Seoul.

Lion Air : Serves Singapore.

Malaysia Airlines:  Serves Kuala Lumpur.

Pacific Blue: Offshoot of Australia's Virgin Blue.

Singapore Airlines: Several Singapore flights daily.

Thai Airways International : Serves Bangkok.

Domestic services in Bali seem to be in a constant state of flux. However competition is fierce and you can usually find flights to a range of destinations for under US$100. The best thing to do is to go to the airport and shop at the airline ticket offices. Often you'll come close to long-distance bus and ferry fares. Places served often from Bali include Jakarta, Surabaya, Lombok, Yogyakarta, Bima, Maumere, Bandung, Kupang and more.

AirAsia: Fast-growing Malaysian-based budget carrier with a web of Indonesian domestic flights.

Batavia Air ( www.batavia-air.co.id) Serves numerous destinations; has the enigmatic slogan: Trust us to fly.

Garuda Indonesia ( www.garuda-indonesia.com) The national carrier serves numerous cities. Lion Air ( www.lionair.co.id) Fast-expanding budget carrier has a web of services across the archipelago; carried the most passengers in 2008.

Bus

JAVA

Many buses from numerous bus companies travel daily between the Ubung terminal in Denpasar and major cities in Java (via ferry); most travel overnight. Fares vary between operators, and depend on what sort of comfort you want - it's worth paying extra for a decent seat and air-con. For details, see p300.

Sea

JAVA

Ferries operate between Gilimanuk in western Bali and Ketapang (Java).

LOMBOK

This island is accessible by regular public boat from Padangbai, see p331. Fast boats for tourists serve the Gili Islands.

OTHER INDONESIAN ISLANDS

The Pelni ship Kehmutu wanders the archipelago on a monthlong route that links Bali  with Surabaya and then Bima, Makassar, Ambon, Banda, Tual and points further east. Prices are dependent on the route and the class of travel, and this can vary widely in price. Check for details locally but in general, fares, even in 1st class, are very low, eg Bali to Surabaya on Java is US$35.

You can inquire and book at the Pelni offices in Tuban and at the harbour in Benoa.

GETTING AROUND

Bali is a small island with good roads and regular, inexpensive public transport. Traffic is heavy throughout the south and east as far as Semarapura and west across to the port of Gilimanuk. Roads are more pleasant on the rest of the island. If you rent your own vehicle, it's generally not hard to find your way around -main roads have some signs and maps are readily available. Off the main routes, most

roads are surfaced but often potholed and signage is not good.

It's worth noting that many pricier restaurants in places such as South Bali and Ubud will arrange free transport to/from the establishment. Just ask.

To/From the Airport

From the official counters, just outside the airport terminals, there are supposedly fixed-price taxis. However, efforts may be made to charge you at the high end of each range and if you say you don't have a room booking, there will be heavy pressure to go to a commissionpaying hotel. The costs are (depending on drop-off point):

If you have a surfboard, you'll be charged at least 35,000Rp extra, depending on its size. Ignore any touts that aren't part of the official scheme. Many hotels will offer to pick you up at the airport, however there's no need to use this service if it costs more than the above rates.

The thrifty can walk from the international and domestic terminals across the airport car park to the right (northeast) and continue a couple of hundred metres through the vehicle exit to the airport road (ignor ing any touts along the way), where you can hail a regular cab for about half the above amounts.

Any taxi will take you to the airport at a metered rate that should be much less than the taxis from the airport.

Bemo

Most of Bali's public transport is provided by cramped minibuses, usually called bemo, but on some longer routes the vehicle may be a full-sized bus. Denpasar is the transport hub of Bali and has bus/bemo terminals for all the various destinations. Travel in southern Bali often requires travelling via one or more of the Denpasar terminals, which can make for an inconvenient and time-consuming trip.

The fare between main towns may be posted at the terminals, or you can ask around. You can also flag down a bemo pretty much anywhere along its route; you will likely be charged the harga turis (tourist price). Ask a local the correct fare before starting a journey, or watch what people pay and give the same when you get off. Local rides cost a minimum of4000Rp.

Note that as seemingly everyone on Bali has bought a motorbike, the bemo/bus network has suffered. Service hours are short and frequencies may be few. .

Beware of pickpockets on bemos - they often have an accomplice to distract you, or use a package to hide the activity.

Bicycle

A famous temple carving  shows the Dutch artist WOJ Nieuwenkamp pedalling through Bali in 1904. Bali's roads have im-proved greatly since then and more and more people are touring the island by sepeda (bi-cycle). Many visitors are using bikes around the towns and for day trips in Bali. Ask at your accommodation about where you can rent a good bike; hotels often have their own. Generally, prices range from 20,000Rp to 30,000Rp per day.

Boat

Boats of various sizes serve Nusa Lembongan  and Nusa Penida from Benoa Harbour, Sanur and Padangbai.

Car & Motorcycle

A small Suzuki or Toyota 4WD is the typical rental vehicle in Bali. Typical costs are 150.000Rp to 180,000Rp per day, including insurance and unlimited kilometres but not including fuel. Hiring a car with driver will cost around 350,000 Rp to 600,000Rp for an eight- to 10-hour day.

Motorcycles are a popular way to get around Bali, but can be dangerous. Most rental motorcycles are between 90cc and 125cc, with 100cc being the usual size. Rental charges vary with the bike, period of hire and demand. The longer the hire period the lower the rate; the bigger or newer the bike the higher die rate. Typically you can expect to pay from around 30,000 to 40,000Rp a day. This in-cludes a flimsy helmet, which is compulsory and provides protection against sunburn but not much else.

You can arrange rentals from any place yoi are staying, or in tourist areas just by waikinj down the street. Offers will pour forth.

Taxi

Metered taxis are common in South Bali They are essential for getting around Kut and Seminyak, where you can easily flag on down. Elsewhere, they're often a lot less hassl than haggling with bemo jockeys and charte drivers.

The usual rate for a taxi is 5000Rp fla fall and 4000Rp per kilometre, but the rat is higher in the evening. If you phone for taxi, the minimum charge is 10.000Rp. An driver who claims meter problems or wh won't use it should be avoided.

By far the most reputable taxi agency is BJ Taxi , whic uses distinctive blue vehicles with the wore 'Bluebird Group' over the windshield (watc out for fakes). Drivers speak reasonab English, won't offer you illicit opportunitii and use the meter at all times. Many expa will use no other firm and the drivers are ofte fascinating conversationalists.

After Bali Taxi, standards decline rapidl Some are acceptable, although you m« have a hassle getting the driver to use tl meter and fending off offers for shoppin massage etc.

Tourist Shuttle Bus

Tourist shuttle buses travel between ti main tourist centres in Bali and connect destinations on Lombok. Shuttle buses a quicker, more comfortable and more coi venient than public transport. But if you' with a group of three or more people ( sometimes even two), it may be cheaper charter a vehicle.

Perama (www.peramatour.com) has a near m nopoly on this service in Bali. At least 01 bus a day links the main Bali tourist centr with more frequent services to the airpo There are also services along the east co: between Lovina and Candidasa via Amed demand.

Fares are reasonable (for example, Kuta Lovina is 100,000Rp). Be sure to book yo trip at least a day ahead in order to confii schedules. It is important to understand whf Perama buses stop as you may need to pay extra 5000Rp to get to/from your hotel. Soi routes involve changing buses.