Overland routes between Sittwe and Yangon (as well as to Mrauk U) are presently closed to foreigners.

AIR

Before leaving Sittwe, you must reconfirm your booking - your hotel should be able to help. Sittwe's airport is about 1.5 miles west of the centre. Taxis (K2500 to K3000) and trishaws (KI500) await flights.

In peak season (between October and April), daily flights go to and from Yangon ($85 to $88) and (at research time) there were flights six days a week to and from Thandwe ($60 to $65).

See map locations for the offices of Air Mandalay and Yangon Airways, both of whom help with Air Bagan tickets. The government-run Myanma Airways has an office off the Main Rd.

BOAT       

The only way to/from Mrauk U for foreigners at present is by boat. There are a couple of speeds to go by.

Most visitors used to go straight from the airport to the jetty to take a 'private boat', a simple tarp-covered boat with flat deck, a few plastic chairs and often no WC. The government suspended afternoon departures in early 2008, due to the potential danger of after-dark travels (in 2004, five tourists were killed when a boat capsi/.ed during a sudden storm). This means you'll likely have to overnight in Sittwe before taking a morning boat to Mrauk U.

You will have offers for such a 'private boat' before you can get out of the airport. Generally a boat can fit four to six easily and runs $100 to $120 return, with the driver waiting two or three nights. Ask ahead about the cost if you decide to stay another day in Mrauk U, which often happens.

The two-level ferry to Mrauk U ($4, six to seven hours) is run by the government's Inland Water Transport (IWT), which has an office 90yd west of the Mrauk U jetty, though there's no need to buy tickets in advance. Following petrol price hikes, IWT cut back its service to once weekly (leaving Sittwe at 7am on Tuesday, leaving Mrauk U on Wednesday). At some point over this book's life, it's likely the ferries will resume their past schedule, departing Sittwe Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and returning from Mrauk U on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Peck chairs are available for rent (K500) and there's a stall serving basic food.

Suspended at research time, the eight-seater 'fast boat' of Shwe Pyi Ohe (ft 24141) previously offered zippy 90-minute rides to Mrauk U for a whopping $300 or so, and it may resume again.

To Taunggok

Malikha Express : sells tickets for the 130-person fast boat (enclosed with windows) for Taunggok ($40, eight hours), which departs at 7am on Monday, Thursday and Saturday. The boat stops in the island port town of Kyaukpyu for 30 or 40 minutes for lunch. See Taunggok  for schedule times to Sittwe.

AROUND SITTWE

With a day to spare, one of the two most appealing day trips is to the weaving village Wabo, reached by a 90-minute boat ride from Sittwe, where you can see where Rakhaing-style longyi are made. Rhine Pyi Soe can arrange the trip for K50.000, with the option of an English-speaking guide for $20. Bring food for lunch.

Another tempting option is a ride over to Baronga Island, to see a fishing village on the hilly island visible across the wide Kaladan River. Typically a boat for the day is about K60.000 or more, ask at Khine Pyi Soe.