Stripped of its status as capital in 2005, Yangon nonetheless continues to be the hub of economic activity, a hive of underground intellectual debate and the gateway for most international visitors. The stunning Shwedagon Paya is the centrepiece of the city, a gleaming golden stupa visible from all over town. Closer to the waterfront, downtown Yangon is a warren of historic streets concealing some of the best British colonial-era architecture in the region. Forget the cosmetic renovations in Singapore: this is the real deal. A walk along the Strand or Pansodan St is like strolling down Pall Mall, albeit without the paint job.

Vibrant and dynamic, sweaty and steamy, reaching for the future but trapped in the past, Yangon is a fascinating introduction to Myanmar. It’s diverse too – home to Burmese, Shan, Mon, Chinese, Indians and Western expats. Aung San Suu Kyi remains under house arrest here in her home on University Ave. General Than Shwe is rumoured to return on weekends, perhaps unable to survive the boredom of sterile Naypyidaw, the new ‘capital’.