RESTAURANT ROW

Nyaung U's Restaurant Row (south of the main road, just east of the bus station) is ; strip of atmospheric open-air eateries geare( towards foreign visitors. Touristy? Maybe. Bu it's easily the hub(bub) of Bagan action. Man; of the restaurants are copycats, with simila 'everything goes' menus (Chinese, Burmese Thai, Indian, pizza, 'Western' options). Gi and see what looks good.

Aroma 2 (Restaurant Row; dishes K2000-7000; - 9pm or10pm) The best for Indian, by far. It serve veggie and meat curries on banana leaves (o plates) with an endless stream of hot chapal tis and five dollops of condiments (includ ing mango, garlic and tamarind sauces' Good stuff.

Pyi Wa (Restaurant Row; noodles & dishes K1500-, 7am-9pm or 10pm) Slightly less stylish tha some, but Pyi Wa is the only one with a Bagar erazftii (stupa) as a neighbour  staff light u its base at night. The best dishes are Chinesi but do start off with the 'potato cracken' (frie potato wedges that go particularly well with bottle of Myanmar Beer).

ELSEWHERE

San Kabar Restaurant & Pub : Famous as the birthplace of Bagan pizza, the San Kabar's streetside candlelit courtyard is all about its thin-crusted pies and well-prepared salads.

Beach Bar : Signs lead past backstreets from the Nyauug U market to this slick, breezy spot with plenty of parking space for tour buses that may or may not come. The two-floor restaurant is on the river's edge, with good Thai, Chinese and Myanmar dishes and good views from wicker armchairs. Pine for a sunset martini (K3000) too; all drinks are 20% off from 4pm to 6pm.

Nanda ( 60096; Main Rd; set meals K6000; S 9am-10pm) Tour groups go for Nanda, a pleasant open air setting just west-of town, with a 7.30pm puppet show and set meals of Myanmar or Chinese specialities.