Where to Eat & Drink
Ho Chi Minh (Sai Gon) is the reigning culinary king of Vietnam. Restaurants here range from dirt-cheap sidewalk stalls to atmospheric villas, each serving a unique interpretation of Vietnamese decadence. Besides brilliant regional fare, Saigon offers a smattering of world cuisine, with Indian, Japanese, Thai, French, Italian and East-West fusions well represented. Good foodie neighbourhoods include the Dong Khoi area, with a high density of top-quality restaurants, as well as nearby District 3. Pham Ngu Lao's eateries, attempting to satisfy every possible culinary whim, are generally less impressive. Chinese fare rules Cholon, though restaurants here can seem sparser than pagodas on a casual stroll through the area.
Vietnamese
Nam Giao (136/15 Le Thanh Ton Str) Nam Giao serves superb Hue-style mains and is always packed with locals. There's a simple photo menu.
Quan An Ngon ( 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Str). This highly recommended place is where to go for an excellent selection of traditional Vietnamese dishes. Surrounding the garden-style patio is a ring of cooks at individual stations, mixing up their nicely spiced creations in the open air.
Restaurant 31 (31 Ly Tu Trong Str) This popular outdoor eatery in the city centre serves tasty Vietnamese barbecue. The house speciality is tender marinated beef that you grill over charcoal right at your table. It's served with salad. There are also good seafood dishes on the menu and the cheerful staff speak English.
Gourmet Vietnamese
Compared to what you would pay for fine Vietnamese food abroad, Sai Gon's better Vietnamese restaurants are a bargain. It's possible to eat like royalty in a lavish restaurant for around US$15 lor lunch - or US$35 for dinner - per person. Those with a mind tor design shouldn't miss the colourful indigenous decor at many of the better places.
Lemon Grass (4 Nguyen Thiep Str) Despite the simple decor, this is one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the city centre, and you can't go wrong no matter what you order. Reservations essential.
Mandarine (11A Ngo Van Nam Str) The fine selection of traditional dishes on offer draws from southern, central and northern cooking styles. The food is superb, and the pleasant decor and traditional music performances make it an all-round good bet.
Temple Club ( 29 Ton That Thiep Str). On the second floor of a beautifully restored colonial villa. Temple Club serves delectable Vietnamese plates (such as fish with tamarind or shrimp in coconut milk) and an assort ment of fresh salads. Handsome tile floors and elaborate woodwork set the scene. A comfy lounge for drinks adjoins the space.
Xu (75 Đ Hai Ba Trung Str) New in 2006, Xu is a stylishly set dining room that serves up imaginative - and highly successful - Vietnamese dishes. The menu features delicately prepared seafood and grilled meats prepared with a rich mixture of spices.
Nam Kha (46 Dong Khoi Str) The unique selling here consists of a reflecting pool in the middle of the restaurant flanked by gold-leaf - covered pillars, with tables scattered around the outside. Savoury Vietnamese dishes match the unique setting.
French
Sai Gon has a fine selection of French restaurants, from the casual bistro to exquisite dining room.
L'Etoile (180 Hai Ba Trung Str) This restaurant serves terrific French food and it all-day ‘fast food' menu is good value. A set meal could be roast chicken with a choice of five sauces, a minisalad and baguette.
Le Jardin (31 Thai Van Lung Str) The charming little bistro has a shaded terrace cafe in the front garden - it's a popular hang-out for local French expats.
La Nicoise (42 Ngo Duc Ke Str) This tiny French bistro has just a handful of (mosaic-covered) tables, spilling onto the sidewalk. But it's worth squeezing in for the nicely turned out dishes and changing daily specials (like ravioli with smoked salmon).
Augustin (10 Nguyen Thiep Str ) Many consider Augustin the city's best casual French restaurant. It serves tasty batro-style food.
Camargue (6 Cao Ba Quat Str) Housed in a beautiful restored villa with an open-air terrace, Camargue is also home to trendy Vasco's bar. The menu includes a variety of gourmet dishes complemented by a well-appointed wine list.
Au Manoir de Khai ( 251 Dien Bien Phu Str) This five-star French restaurant is set in a picturesque villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. It was opened by the Vietnamese fashion guru Khai (the brains behind Khai Silk and a string of other superb restaurants and hotels in Vietnam).
Le Bordeaux For a decadent meal with a five-star price tag, Le Bordeaux is the place to go. The city's best French restaurant serves delicate scallops, mouth-watering sea bass and other perfectly prepared dishes. It's a few kilometres north of the centre, so reserve before you taxi out
International
Pau Hanna (15/1 Đ Le Thanh Tong Str )This pleasant Hawaiian-owned bistro and bar features eclectic daily specials (pork ribs, quesadillas, bean soup), as well as burgers and vegetarian fare. Head upstairs for a comfier lounge setting - a good place for an evening cocktail.
Annie's Pina (45 Mac Thi Buoi Str ) Continuing a yummy pizza tradition, Annie's offers free delivery.
Drink
Sai Gon's widest and wildest',variety of nightlife choices is in the central are.i, notably around Đong Khoi Street. Although places in this area typically close by midnight
Vasco's (16 Cao Ba Quat Str) Much loved by expats, Vasco’s draws a bigger crowd on weekends when there's live music.
Lush (1 Ly Tu Trong Str) This is an anime-themed bar that gathers an attractive, mixed crowd The wraparound bar takes centre stage, from which you can enjoy great people-watching and a danceable mix of heats - but there's no dance floor. Pool tables and a 2nd-floor bar are hidden out back.
Yoko (22A Nguyen Thi Dieu Str) This stylish little spot tea lures live music (from India rock to American Country to eclectic world beats) most nights starting around 9pm. It has a tiny stage, comfy chairs and a changing assortment of artwork. plus the photo to John Lennon.
Q Bar (7 Lam Son Str) Attracting a sophisticated clientcle for cocktails, Q Bar is where Sai Gon's fashion-conscious, alternative crowd hangs out. The stylish decor is cool and minimalist. and the music is hip.
Qing (31 Dong Du Str) This slim, nicely designed bar has a classic red finish and atmospheric lighting. There's a good wine and food selection (fusion, Asian tapas) and a decent salon upstairs.
No 5 Ly Tu Trong (5 ly Tu Trong Str) The decor of this re stored French-colonial villa is stylish and sleek. Good music, food, beer, pool and friendly stall all contribute to the pleasant atmosphere.
Le Pub ( 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao Str) this attractive bar is the new expat favourite in Pham Ngu Lao area. It has deep red walls and a small brick patio in front, a fine vantage point for watch ing the action in backpacker central.
Eden (185/22 Hoang Hoa Tham Str) This multilevel spot has red lanterns over the bar, a cosy, inviting vibe and staff dressed in shimmery red ao dai (Vietnamese national dress). Huge menu with all the Asian accents, with tastier fare than neighbouring joints can offer.
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