Most folks nest among Cakranegara's quiet streets off Jl Pejanggik/Jl Selaparang, east of Mataram Mall.

BUDGET

Ganesha Inn :Stylish exterior, nice location, but some of the rooms are yellow at the edges.

Oka Homestay :Balinese-owned, this garden compound patrolled by three friendly poodles, is a great deal. Rooms are fan-cooled and quite clean.

Hotel Melati Viktor : The high ceilings, clean rooms and Balinese-style courtyard, complete with Hindu statues, make this one of the best value places in town.

MIDRANGE     

Zaitun Selaparang : In the thick of Cakra's commercial district, this minimall atrium hotel isn't fabulous, but it has new, recently remodelled rooms.

Hotel Sahid Legi : Once Mataram's grand dame of busi-ness hotels, thanks to the blend of modern and Indonesian design influences, three restaurants, international TV and a circular pool. But the halls are dark and even the deluxe rooms can be musty.

Hotel Lombok Raya : This well-located hotel has spacious, comfortable rooms with balconies and all the mod cons including a terrific spa.

The waterfront market has a concentration ofwarungs.

Hotel Ikhlas ( 21695; fax 22555; Jl Ahmad Yani; dishes 3500-12,000Rp) This hotel-restaurant has bargain-priced Indonesian and Western food - the fish and chips come highly recommended.

Human Makan liana (Jl Pahlawan 31; dishes 6000-15,000Rp) A fun hole-in-the-wall with terrific Indonesian soul food, including a gingery sole oyam (chicken soup), a chilli-fired rendang (beef coconut curry), and ayam sate (chicken sate) drenched in ginger sauce.

My Cafe ( 22755; Jl Banteng 10; meals 12,500-17,000Rp, coffee drinks from 6000; 5pm-11pm) Ende's hipster central has a coffee bar, cold Bintang, a few standard Indo dishes (ie nasigorengand mie goreng) and a bakery-case packed with cakes, cookies and doghnuts.

 Human Makan Istana Bambu ( 21921; Jl Kemakmuran 30A; mains 15,000-35,000Rp) Here's a classic, funkified Chinese fish house. The cast includes a sweet mouthy matriarch, her dour smirking sisterhood, and a hot, flirty waitress. But the food is the star. There's fresh fish, squid, shrimp and lobster, addictively spicy sambal (which they bottle and sell), and a shelf of freshly baked cakes, breads and pastries.