New hotels spring up almost by the week, the vast majority of them aimed at high rollers, rather than budget travellers, so you have to look hard for decent cheap sleeps. For those with the cash the newer hotels in town offer some world-class options. Rates shoot up in Macau on Friday or Saturday, while during the week you can find some incredible deals.

These discounts can be found at travel agencies, hotel websites and specialist sites such as www.macau.com. The Shun Tak Centre (200 Connaught Rd, Sheung Wan) in Hong Kong, from where the Macau ferries depart, is also good, as are the booths in the arrivals hall of the Macau ferry terminal.

All rooms have air-conditioning and bathroom unless otherwise stated. Most midrange and top-end hotels have shuttle buses from the ferry terminal.

Macau Peninsula

The budget and midrange options are not great in Macau. Cheap guest houses and hotels occupy central Macau, around Rua das Lorchas and Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, while the top-end casino-hotels generally occupy the southeast and centre of town.

BUDGET

San Va Hospedaria (2857 3701; www .sanvahotel.com; 65-67 Rua de Felicidade) On the Street of Happiness, which was once the hub of the red-light district, the San Va is about the cheapest and most atmospheric lodging in town. It's also very basic, with tiny rooms (room 205 is best), paper-thin walls, no air-con and some rooms without bathrooms.

Augusters Lodge ( 66645026,28713242; www.augusters.de; Flat 3J, Block 4, Edif Kam Loi, 24 Rua Do Or Pedro Jose) Something of a backpackers' hub, this tiny, friendly guest house has basic but clean rooms with shared bathrooms. It's located above the CTM shop.

Hotel Ko Wah (Hotel Kou Va;  2893 0755; 3rd fl, 71 Rua da Felicidade) This welcoming little place is popular with backpackers. It's far from luxurious, but the central location makes up for that.

Hou Kong Hotel ( 2983 7555; fax 2833 8884; Travessa das Virtudes) In the historic Porto Interior area, the newly refurbished Hou Kong retains its wonder-ful old facade but now offers surprisingly modern rooms for the money. Check a few -some don't have windows. You may get better deals midweek.

Macau Masters Hotel ( 2893 7572; www.mastershotel-macau.com; 162 Rua das Lorchas; s/d from MOP$650/870; ^) A shabby exterior hides a smartly maintained hotel with small, well-equipped, if somewhat outmoded, rooms.

East Asia Hotel ( 29222433;fax28922431; 1 a Rua da Madeira; d MOP$290-450, tr MOP$500, ste MOP$720) The 98-room East Asia, in a quiet street five minutes' walk from Largo do Senado, is one of Macau's better budget options. The decor is mid-1980s and while the rooms aren't inspirational they are unusually large and perfectly adequate. Floors six to eight are best.

MIDRANGE

G3ES3 Pousada de Mong Ha ( 2515 5222; www.ift.edu.mo/pousada; Rua de Mong Ha) This attractive 19th-century Portuguese inn atop Mong Ha Hill, near the ruins of a fort, is run by tourism students. The rooms are simple, homely and squeaky clean. Rates (reduced to single/double/suite MOPS500/600/1000 from Monday to Friday) include breakfast and are among the best in the city.

Fortuna Hotel ( 2878 6333; www.hotel fortuna.com.mo; 63 Rua da Cantao;, ste from MOPS1888) In the thick of the casino district, the Fortuna offers decent rooms and attractive midweek rates.

Holiday Inn (Map pp564-5; 2878 3333; www.macau .holiday-inn.com; 82-86 Rua de Pequim; s MOP$1000-1760, ste from MOPS2360; True, there's a degree of chain-hotel blandness here, but standards are high and it's a solid-enough midrange option, given the lack of decent contenders in this category. There's a small pool and fitness centre.

Hotel Sintra (Map p566; @ 28710111; www.hotelsintra .com; Avenida de Do Joao; MOPS1160-1760, ste from MOP$2360) This centrally located three-star hotel often has a 50% discount. Rooms are spotless,  but if you take one facing the Grand Emperor Hotel you may find the big LED screen disturbing. It provides a shuttle service to the  ferry terminal every 15 minutes.

TOP END

Sofitel Macau at Pointe 16 ( 8&61 0016; www.sofitel.com.cn; Rua do Visconde Pa$o de Arcos; r from MOP$1650, ste from MOP$2600; §J O g)) Expect reasonably priced luxury from this high-end chain offering atmospheric views over the fishing boats of the inner harbour from the pool bar. The rooms are large and have very comfortable beds, while bathrooms have L'Occitane toiletries.

Rocks Hotel( 22956528;www.rockshotel .com.mo; Macau Fisherman's Wharf; s & d MOP51880-2580, ste from MOP$4080; §£i) This elegant Victorian-style boutique hotel is set amid a tribal-hut African restaurant and casino, reminding you that you're in a theme park. The rooms are decent and most have a view of the waterfront.

Mandarin Oriental ( 2856 7888; www .mandarinoriental.com/macau; 956-1110 Avenida da Amizade; r MOPS2000-3900, ste from MOP$5300) Despite the massive, glossy new casino-hotels springing up everywhere, if we had to pick one high-end place to stay it would be the Mandarin for its superlative service, comfortable rooms, great little bar (see p576) and spa complex. A refit of the slightly outdated rooms and bathrooms should be com-plete by the time you read this.

PousadadeSaoTiago( faj 28378111;www .saotiago.com.mo; Fortaleza de Sao Tiago da Barra, Avenida de Republica; r from MOPS5800, ste from MOPS6800) The St James Inn', built into the ruins of a 17th-century fort, commands a splendid view of the harbour. It's hugely romantic, old-fashioned and expensive.

The Islands

Taipa is changing fast, with several high-end international hotel chains opening up aJong the Cotai Strip during 2009 and onwards. Coloane Island offers some great budget options, including two Hostelling International-affiliated hostels.

BUDGET

Pousada de Juventude de Cheoc Van ( 2888 2024; Rua de Antonio Francisco, Coloane; dm/d Sun-Fri MOPS40/70, Sat MOPS50/100) This very clean hostel is on the eastern side of Cheoc Van Bay, below the Pousada de Coloane. It has a small kitchen and garden. Book through the Education & Youth Services Department (2855 5533; www.dsej.gov.mo). You must have an HI card or equivalent; men and women are separated.

Pousada de Juventude de Mac Sa (2888 2701; Rua de Mac Sa Long Chao Kok, Coloane; dm/ d/q Sun-Fri MOP540/50/70, Sat MOP$50/70/100) Same deal as the Cheoc Van; at the southern end of Hac Sa Beach.

MIDRANGE

Mill-mil Pousada de Coloane ( 2882 2143; www.hotelpcoloane.com.mo; Estrada de Cheoc Van, Coloane; r from MOP$750; 'fit,) Run by a Portuguese family, this 30-room hotel with its Portuguese-style rooms is wonderfully romantic and excellent value. And the location above Cheoc Van Beach is about as chilled as you'll find. The attached Portuguese restaurant (open Sam to 10pm) is great.

TOP END

Crown Macau ( 2886 8888; www.crown -macau.com; Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa; r/ste from MOP$2280/4180)This self-appointed 'six-star' place is, for now at least, the top address on the islands (although there will be plenty of competition opening up in 2009 along the Cotai Strip). The massive rooms in muted earth tones, with 3m-high plate-glass windows, and a full battery of technology and connectivity, match the style and swank of the other hotel facilities, which include a breathtaking rooftop bar and terrace.